[Review] Nikko Hoshinoyado

I’ve been excited to write about this one in particular because it’s my favorite in the main Nikko Station area.

Nikko Hoshinoyado sits just in front of the historic Hotel Kanaya. The distance from the must-visit destinations are convenient too, right at the heels of Toshogu Shrine and near Shinkyō Bridge.

I first heard about it from the locals. It’s widely recommended as the best experience you can get for the typical price point, and the day use experience that includes a meal and a bath is the Japanese go-to for a little treat.

It was autumn when I visited and I walked from the station, astonishingly moving faster than the heavy traffic on the main road beside me. It took a little hike onto a small hill to reach the ryokan and it’s hidden behind a curve and a steakhouse. A refreshing distance from the busyness of the street below.

The first thing that greeted me was the little shrine and Japanese garden in front of the building:

The contrast between the newer Japanese ryokan and the older, western-styled Hotel Kanaya behind it was an interesting sight.

I went in and approached the front desk, passing by a cozy lobby set-up of sofas surrounding a central table that looked like it functioned as a hearth with a kettle in the middle.

The receptionist was a sweet lady who handled things perfectly and set me on my way in no time at all.

Hoshinoyado has the tightest day-use time frame I’ve ever seen, which is 12pm – 3pm.

The cost is ¥1,000 including a face towel that you can take home. This is arguably better than most places that charge extra for towels, especially when you factor in the facilities and ambience of the place.

I walked down the long, quiet corridors with occasional art pieces that I was too excited to pay attention to as I made my way to the onsen.

The onsen itself comprises of a large indoor bath and a smaller outdoor bath.

The indoor bath is set between two walls made almost entirely of glass doors, giving an unobstructed view to the greenery outside.

I sat in a corner and folded my arms on the edges of the bath while I soaked and stared at the trees, emptying my thoughts and only existing in the moment.

The outside space was filled with shrubbery and a small peek of the sky, bringing a sense of privacy while still being close to nature.

It was considerably busy given the popularity of the area, and I was able to move to the outdoor bath after a while.

The outdoor bath is the size of a small bathtub, the sort that ryokans install into private rooms. It could fit 3 people before it starts to feel crowded.

I had about 10 minutes of having the entire tub to myself, and being able to stretch my arms and legs feels wonderful.

While soaking I could occasionally hear the traffic from the main road below, hidden behind the tranquil scene in front of me. It didn’t bother me much, but it gave perspective to how close the ryokan actually is to the main road.

An off-season visit on a weekday afternoon would probably be amazing.

Towards 3pm the place started to clear out, and I reluctantly climbed out and wrapped things up.

It felt extra nice to be grooming myself with the ReFa hairdryer they had, with the onsen warmth lingering on my skin and face flushed from the soak.

By the time I stepped back into the corridor, I was relaxed enough to slow down and notice the surroundings more.

I passed by the private bath on my way out. It’s in a closed space with a large window, so you feel further from the nature but there is a sense of privacy.

The walk back into the lobby felt lulling to my mind. It’s quiet, with more greenery visible from the window, and the hanging ornaments swaying lightly from time to time.

I sat in the lobby for a bit, admiring the Japanese garden in view. I took a little stroll into the garden further back before I wrapped up the day.

Hoshinoyado is undoubtedly my favorite onsen facility in the main Nikko area, but admittedly the surroundings and architecture carried more weight than the onsen itself.

That said, the day use cost of ¥1,000 to experience a part of what would otherwise cost 50-60k per night is a pretty good deal. The private onsen at ￥1,500 for 45 minutes is also one of the best deals I’ve seen around. If I could only recommend one onsen in the main Nikko area, this is it.